¡Salud! Mexican Drinking Customs

Alcohol is a big factor in Mexican society. Many gather to drink in cantinas, which are Mexico’s version of pubs. Some more upscale cantinas may even feature a piano player who plays well-known Mexican drinking songs that people love to sing along. Many Mariachi songs also relate to drinking stories. The must common way to say “Cheers!” is “¡Salud!”, which means health.

Drinking in the streets is acceptable in certain areas of Mexico, like Jalisco and Nayarit. If you are leaving a club at closing time, bouncers will hand you a plastic cup to pour out your drink into, so you can finish consuming it outside. However, it is not legally acceptable in some areas, like Oaxaca and the Mexico City Federal District. There is one plaza in Mexico City called Garibaldi, where people are allowed to drink. It is traditionally a place where people go when they are dumped by a lover, so they can drink and not think about it, and listen to the Mariachi bands instead. However, it is more of a tourist place now with people trying to hassle you to go to some designated bars.

Beer

Beer, or cerveza, is very popular throughout Mexico. Contrary to its popularity in the United States, most Mexicans do not like Corona very much, and consider it one of the lower beers. Tecate, Leon, Pacifico, Victoria and Modelo are very popular brands. Most Mexican beer is on the lighter side, as it is a warm weathered country, but those who enjoy dark beer have Negro Modelo.

Mexicans make mix drinks out of beer, called “Cerveza Preparada,” or prepared beer. One popular mix is the clamato, which puts tomato juice into beer. It is kind of like a beer Bloody Mary. Another is the Michelada, which has beer, hot sauce and lemon in it. These drinks are served with ice, and sometimes with garnish like lime or orange slice.

Beers come in several sizes, and in bottles or cans. In order to drink beer out of the larger bottles, it is necessary that you bring a used one back for the deposit credit. The clerk will usually give you a written receipt along with the bottle.

Tequila

Tequila originates in the town of Tequila, Jalisco, which is located 60 kilometers from Guadalajara. In order for tequila to rightfully be called tequila, it needs to come out of this town.

Tequila comes from the agave plant, which is a popular plant and symbol you will see all throughout Mexico. Only a couple species of agave can actually be turned into liquor. The plants take approximately eight to ten years to reach full maturity and be ready for the process.

The finished product is the national alcohol of Mexico, and is used for special occasions.

Mezcal

Mezcal is like tequila, coming from agave. It is less distilled than tequila, and has a higher content of alcohol. However, it tastes somewhat smooth, yet smokey and spicy (definitely best followed by a lime). Mezcal was actually the original version of the agave liquid. It was only when the Spanish came that this liquor started being more distilled into the tequila product.

The southern state of Oaxaca is the best place to drink Mezcal. They have regional pride in rightgeous mezcal, and contempt for cheap, diluted versions.

The Markets of Mexico: Guadalajara and San Cristobal de Las Casas

Guadalajara

Guadalajara, a major Mexican city located in the state of Jalisco, has over 30 malls and markets, located throughout the city.

The Liberty Market is located right downtown, and is a multi-story network that contains almost everything, separated into themed sections. If you are interested in shopping for cheap movies or music, there are dozens of stands that each have hundreds of bootlegs available for sale. Other sections of this market have fresh produce, electronics, clothing, cowboy boots, sneakers, meats, flowers, traditional carpets and toys. Locals and visitors both frequent this huge market.

One level of the market is full of eateries, many of which are centered around seafood. Others are Japanese themed, and many are just simple taco spots. It is common for people in Guadalajara to come here and eat on on Sundays.

Another market, El Bartilla, is located on the streets and is less official. It is open every Sunday. One part of it is in a network of tents, and has assorted clothing, tools, pottery, electronics and make up for sale. There are also many ladies who make fresh juices out of their smoothies. If you head to the outskirts, some of the merchandise on blankets is a bit questionable. Shoppers will find a selection of broken computer parts, old toys and perhaps even used bottles of mouthwash for sale.

San Cristobal de Las Casas

There are two main markets in San Cristobal de Las Casas, which is a small city located in the mountains of Chiapas. The first market is in the main part of town, near Santo Domingo, and is full of colorful handmade crafts from the local Mayan-speaking population. They sell assorted cloths, scarves, toys, wallets, sculptures and other knit items. There are some colorful embroidered textiles that probably take months to complete. You can sometimes view women weaving the individual cloths right in front of their merchandise. You must haggle at these markets, but nothing is too expensive.

If you cannot make it to this craft market in time, there are still individual vendors who walk all throughout the town with their merchandise. Women will carry dozens of handmade scarves, purses, belts, all around their bodies, and perhaps even have a young baby secured around their backs as well!

The second market, Tierra Verde, is more centered around food. It contains assorted bakeries, and pastry and butcher shops. They also sell fruits that come straight out of the mountains, such as oranges that still have the stems and leaves on them. It is quite a jam-packed maze through this market, so expect an intense experience. Apart from food, vendors also sell some beauty products, toys and other small items.

Museums of Mexico City, Mexico

National Museum of Anthropology

This is a world famous museum that focuses on Mesoamerica and Mexican history. To walk the whole museum would be about five kilometers.

The most famous piece in the museum is the Aztec calendar, shown above. Supposedly the sun in the middle of it is missing its nose because an American soldier shot it off.

The museum also has artifacts from several primitive cultures before the time of religion, representing people and their symbols more in touch with nature. You can also see an extensive display of weapons, stone cooking devices, jewelery, and statues. There is also a huge fountain outside (shown above) with many symbols of Mexican heritage. It also has additional information about many of the ruins around Mexico City, such as Teotihuacan, and how the pyramids were originally intricately painted. It is located within the Bosque de Chapultepec, which is a huge urban forest park that has many other museums, monuments and excavations.

Frida Kahlo Museum

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera are probably the most famous Mexican artists. Here, you get to visit the house that Frida grew up in and where she and Diego lived in for several years. It is a blue house located on a corner, full of large rooms and peaceful gardens. The museum has many portraits and self portraits from throughout Frida’s life and some paintings by Diego. There are also photographs of them, as well as interesting photographs of Soviet socialists. The museum tries to create a representation of their lifestyle, with kitchens and bedrooms set up. It is located in a beautiful, upscale and colorful neighborhood in the Coyoacan district that is also pleasant to walk around.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

This small museum has two floors, both of which have Mexican art, such as photographs and wood-cut prints. On the first floor, there is a huge, famous mural by Diego Rivera from 1947, called “Sueno de una Tarde Dominical en la Alameda Central,” which means “Sunday Afternoon Dream in the Alameda Central.” It has many depictions of the history of both Mexico and Mexico City, as well as moments of Diego’s life.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

This art museum and theather is located in a huge building that is an art nouveau palace, which was designed by an Italian architect in the early 20^th century. It has murals painted onto its walls by Diego Rivera, Roberto Montenegro, Jose Clemente Orozco and more, representing several moments, struggles and symbols of Mexican history. This palace also holds an elegant theater that puts on performances like Mexican folklore-inspired dances. Its rotating exhibits range from dark, abstract paintings to sculptures to colorful psychedelic pop art. It is located east of the Alameda Central, by a nice little park that sells all sorts of crafts and delicious street food.

Note: In many of Mexico City’s museums, the majority of the signs are only in Spanish. Tour guides and audio guides in many different languages are plentiful.

Eating Customs in Mexico

Eating in Mexico is definitely inspired by Spanish customs, in terms of time. Mexico is a big country, so the food you eat and the customs can vary depending what region you are in.

Breakfast, or “El desayuno,” is served between 7:00 AM-10:00 PM. Some Mexicans choose to eat during breakfast, while others just enjoy a cup of coffee. It depends on the person. A more complex breakfast could be something like “huevos rancheros,” which is fried eggs on a tortilla, with some salsa, corn and onions. Some lighter choices include things like fruit, toast, yogurt and pastries.

Lunch, or “La comida,” is served between 1:00-4:30 PM, and it’s the largest, most important meal of the day. Mexicans spend a lot of time relaxing at lunch, and like to take their time chatting before, during and after the food being served. You will generally eat an appetizer before the main course, like soup or salad. Then the main course will usually be something with seafood, chicken or meat, perhaps with rice and beans. Hot tortillas are served with lunch.

In more rural places, people do not eat as much meat, but more rice, beans, corn and corn products, like tamales. Sometimes, in the countryside, people have it set up where all of their food is in a single pantry house separate from the sleeping arrangements.

Dinner, or “La cena,” is served between 8:00-9:00 PM. It is a light meal that can be something like soup or tacos.

When you are eating at a table, it is proper to keep your hands visible, rather than under that table. Sometimes it’s a good idea to keep your wrists wresting on the edge. If you are invited to someone’s home in Mexico, you should show up later than the given time, like 30 minutes. Many find it rude to show up early. Wait to be seated, and wait for the hostess to begin eating. It’s polite to leave a little food on your plate after the meal, so you don’t have to finish everything. Only men toast in Mexico. When you are done with your meal, it is customary to put the fork and knife across your plate, handles facing right, fork prongs facing the plate.

When you eat out at a restaurant, they will automatically leave on a 15% tax on the checks. However, the tip is not included, and you’re expected to leave one. Generally, 15% is a good amount to leave for your waiter.

Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico: The Holiday

December 12^th is an important Mexican holiday that commemorates Our Lady of Guadalupe. Thousands of Mexicans from all around the country make a pilgrimage to Mexico City so they can gather at the Basicilica of Guadalupe. Many people begin to show up on the 11^th, many of whom take the whole journey by bicycle. There are even trucks that follow these cyclists in case of emergency situations, and to offer other such assistance. Most of the bicyclists are male. If you live or plan to move to Mexico, this is certainly a holiday to experience!

At the sight of the Basilica, many dancers and musicians also gather to offer art to the icon. Nighttime of the 12^th is quite festive, full of people of all ages and backgrounds from all over Mexico coming to celebrate this holiday. A great mass is held at this time, and it is said to be a very spiritually bonding experience.

Outside of Mexico City and the Basilica of Guadalupe, Mexicans throw all sorts of fiestas all over the country. You can find statues and pictures of the Virgin everywhere, and people are dancing and holding all sorts of spiritual events and praying. People also set off firecrackers and light all sorts of lights, so it’s a very visually stimulating holiday.

The history of this holiday dates back to the 1500s. There were many Spanish missionaries at this time around Mexico City. One of them, Juan Diego, is said to have seen an image of a young woman surrounded by light on the slopes of the Hill of Tepeyac. She supposedly was speaking in Nahuatl, the native language, and was asking for a church to be built on site. Juan Diego decided that this vision must be the Virgin Mary, and went to tell all of the other Spanish missionaries about her.

This is just a legend; it is subject to historical, and of course realistic, debate. Nevertheless, the symbol of the Virgin of Guadalupe has been a national Mexican symbol ever since the War of Independence. The rebel armies used her image on their flags during wartime. She has been a popular figure among Mexican Catholics ever since.

Some historians even believe that this symbol is a mix of new and old Mexican culture. Some think that she is not only representative of the Virgin Mary, but also the Mexican goddess Tonantzin, or the Aztec goddess Coatilcue. Whatever the case, it is a widely recognized symbol of the country.

Exploring the Major Cities in Mexico

Mexico City

Mexico City, the Federal District, is the capital and major hub of government, culture and business in Mexico. It is one of the oldest cities in the world, as it used to be inhabited as Tenochtitlan by the mighty Aztec Empire. Today, it is a major global city within Latin America. It is located in the Valley of Mexico, in the high plateaus of central Mexico. About one-fifth of the entire Mexican population works, lives and plays here. Mexico City is referred to as “Mexico” by people living there. It is one of the most populated areas in the world, as over 19 million people live within 750 square kilometers (about 8 million people live in Mexico City proper). Mexico City exists over 2,250 meters (7,400 feet) above sea level, by two big volcanoes. All roads in Mexico lead to Mexico City, so it is easy to get in and out of here by car or bus.

Guadalajara

Guadalajara is Mexico’s second largest city, which is 250 miles northwest of the capital. It is located in central Mexico, and is 1,600 meters (5,200 feet) above sea level. It has a population of 5 million. It is often considered the most Mexican of Mexico’s cities, because of all of the traditional culture. Many traditional Mexican customs, concepts and things originated in Guadalajara. One Mexican custom that started in Guadalajara is Mariachi music, where people go around with stringed instruments in black velvet clothes and large hats, and sing traditional Mexican folk songs. Tequila also began in Guadalajara, as well as the sombrero. It is a wonderful city to live in because it offers many cultural aspects and fewer stresses that a capital city would have. It is also way less polluted than Mexico City.

Monterrey

Monterrey is Mexico’s third largest city, and is located in the Sierra Madre mountain range in the northwest. Three million people live here, and it is a very modern and commercial city that hosts many of the major Mexican companies. Many factories are also centered here. It is considered fairly Americanized for a Mexican city. There are many business areas, but also some wonderful museums and churches. Within an hour’s radius outside of Monterrey, there are many beautiful mountains, caves and waterfalls, so it is a good place to live if you do business in the city and then go to nature on the weekends.

Cinco de Mayo in America and the Aspiring Spirit of Expatriatism

You could probably make the argument that Cinco de Mayo is a holiday celebrated with greater significance in America than in Mexico. Certainly, in Mexico the holiday is at best celebrated only regionally with limited importance elsewhere in the country.

Yet throughout America on May 5th, Americans pack into Mexican restaurants, slurp down margaritas and devour pico de gallo by the bucketful. And it doesn’t seem to matter whether you have Mexican heritage or not; Cinco de Mayo is a holiday that is equally celebrated regardless of your ethnicity.

This raises the question: why do Americans celebrate Cinco de Mayo with such fervor?

We think it has to do with America’s thriving spirit of expatriatism and celebration of its fluid ethnic background. Certainly, there are more American expatriates in Mexico than in any other country in the world, and Mexico’s influence on American culture runs far deeper than just a shared border. Mexican food and drink are beloved in America, particularly in the Southwest. And of course, Mexicans are the largest group today emigrating into America.

The holiday gives Americans of all colors a chance to celebrate the positive influences of Mexican culture (or at least, American perception of Mexican culture). But perhaps more astutely, Cinco de Mayo may also give Americans an opportunity to entertain their fantasies of expatriating to someplace more exotic.

Despite the sometimes ridiculous and inaccurate stereotypes that occasionally get played out on the holiday, we think that aspiring spirit of expatriatism is a healthy thing worth celebrating. So clang a glass and twist a lime and have a happy Cinco de Mayo!

Should Travelers Change Their Plans Because of Swine Flu?

Concern and panic over swine flu outbreaks worldwide may be keeping a lot of travelers and aspiring expats at home. But we think you should reconsider.

Although there is minimal reason for heightened alarm, the chances of contracting the swine flu are still extremely unlikely. In fact, if you’re a U.S. citizen, you are probably less likely to contract the swine flu by traveling or living anywhere else, aside from Mexico.

Confirmed cases within the U.S.– and the rest of the world– are so low compared to the population at large that if you don’t have any reason to believe you’ll be directly exposed (if there weren’t confirmed cases at your school, place of work, or social/family network), worrying about contracting the disease at this point would be fairly irrational.

And this still holds even if you’re planning a trip to Mexico, where the swine flu outbreak has originated and had the largest impact. The outbreaks in Mexico are mostly centralized in large urban areas such as in Mexico City. At the time of writing this, there were about 2,500 suspected cases of swine flu reported in the whole of Mexico. Taking only the population of Mexico City into consideration, that would mean you’d have a 0.03% chance of contracting the swine flu. And again, that’s only if you were at the very center of the outbreak.

The odds fall by so much everywhere else in the world that it’s simply not worth changing any plans for.

Naturally at any early stage of an outbreak like this, there is concern that it could continue to spread, and spread exponentially. But at this time, that’s simply not the case. If you’re traveling to an area of high risk, exercise precautions. For the most part, though, there’s no reason to overreact.

So don’t change your plans. Enjoy your travels!

Zihuatanejo, Mexico

Escaping to Zihuatanejo was the only thing keeping fictional expat and excon, Andy Dufresne (from the film classic The Shawshank Redemption), hopeful and inspired. We couldn’t help but to recommend it as this week’s Monday Escape.

In the movie, Dufresne dreams about one day being free and owning a small hotel on the beach in Zihuatanejo. Upon hearing of this dream, Andy’s jailhouse friend, Red, coined the famous phrase, “Zi… what?”, which has become popular for visitors of the place. The name actually means “place of women”, as it was once the home of a matriarchial society.

Today the city houses a population of just over 60,000, all of whom get to regularly observe those spectacular sunsets over the Pacific.

Zihuatanejo’s Playa Las Gatas is protected by a rock wall which, legend has it, was originally constructed in pre-Colombian times by a Tarascan leader to provide safe swimming for the area’s women and children. Later, Spanish Conquistadores believed the city to be a land of beautiful Amazon women, gold & precious gems.

You could say this region has been popular with resort goers for centuries. That also means transportation in and out of the city is easy to come by, via highway or by air.

We think all of those legends, whether real or fictional, can’t be wrong. Book yourself a stay in Zihuatanejo and find out for yourself!

Beach Towns in Mexico: Puerto Escondido and Sayulita

Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido is located in the state of Oaxaca, on the Pacific coast. It was founded in the 1920s as a port town to ship the coffee grown in the region, and today is home to about 50,000. Though a tourist destination, many locals and expats call it home. It is a wonderful place to be for people who enjoy swimming, boating, warm weather and a relaxed lifestyle.

The city is situated on hills that eventually go downhill to the beaches. It has the feel of several small towns that were built up around the individual beaches. Many people who live there keep a supply of live chickens, so it is common to walk around through the winding residential streets and find chickens crowing and running up fences.

One beach is Zicatela, which has a long stretch of water that is accessible to surfers, but dangerous for swimmers. Puerto Angelito is a beach that is further from the center of the city, but has more of a local scene going on in the uphill residential part. The beach itself is small and accessible to people who walk down dozens of stairs, and the scenery itself is very relaxing.

For people who love to walk on the beach, there is the Andador Escenico beach walk, which takes up about a mile. People have to walk up and down many different rocks and short hills to enjoy this trail, which has excellent ocean views, and spots where you can lean and watch crabs crawl around on rocks. It is really hot and humid in Puerto Escondito, even during the winter time.

Sayulita

Sayulita is a small fishing village in Nayarit, also on the Pacific coast, with a population around 4,000. Many people come here for surfing, and other expats have houses around the town to enjoy the lifestyle. There are also a good deal of northerners from the US and Canada that come here to escape the snow and ice.

The beach itself has yellow sand, palm trees and comfortable water, where baby tortoises sometimes wash up ashore. It is a wonderful place for people to relax on the sand without ever getting up, as lots of vendors walk around the beach selling pastries, tamales, grilled seafood and jewelery. Sayulita is a smaller town where people can walk anywhere, and is full of many restaurants, taco stands, shops and cafes. There are produce markets and convienience stores, and also open-air markets on the weekends where they sell tons of bootleg movies, make-up and other interesting items. The houses are mainly located up in the hills, within the trees, where people can go from them to the beach on foot.

Lots of stray dogs roam the streets and sand of Nayarit, and the beach itself is dog-friendly. Sometimes people can witness horses running across the beach without any people mounting them. One problem of Sayulita is when it gets really busy, all of the ATMs in town run out of cash, so people have to go outside the town to obtain it.

Gardens of Mexico

Las Pozas

UNAM Gardens, Mexico City

The botanical garden at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) aims to preserve living collections of native species from across Mexico.

Its setting in lava outcroppings removed from the busy metropolis of Mexico City makes an interesting, beautiful landscape. The site is ideal growing conditions with mild weather and plenty of rain through the summer. As well as the excellent collection of plants, the garden also has been decorate with a series of tiles painted with the wife variety of butterflies that visit the garden.

The Floating Gardens, Xochimilco, Mexico City

The floating gardens are set along canals and lagoons throughout Xochimilco. The more traditional part of these gardens is located in the central part of the town while the newer, ecologicalpark is to the north of the town. Excellent for birdwatching, especially bulrushes, ducks, herons and egrets. The more touristy canals are the best places to get the full effect of these gardens as there are plenty of the gndola type boats needed for visitng these gardens. European guidebooks from the 1920s called these Floating Gardns the Venice of Mexico and UNESCO has declared Xochimilco a Cultural Heritage site in 1987.

Ethnobotanical Garden in Cuernavaca, Morelos

This garden is listed with the Mexican Botanical Gardens Association AMJB. Cuernavaca is known as the City of Eternal Spring because of the temperate climate and plenty of rainfall the city has beautiful flowers al the time.

The garden includes the Museum of Traditional Medicine and Herbolarium, dedicated to the preservation of and study of plants native to Mexico. Of equal importance is the collection of wild Mexican orchids. Many of these orchids are endangered. Another important area is the collection of xerophytes, or plants that live with limited water, such as cacti, including many rare specimens.

The Ethnobotanical Garden, Oaxaca

Considered by many to be the most interesting botanical garden in Mexico, this beautiful garden has plants collected from across Oaxaca, many salvaged during the building of new roads.

Cosmovitral-Jardin Botanico, Toluca, Mexico

This garden is as impressive for its collection of plants from around the world as it is for the space in which they grow. The 5,000 square meters was once the Toluca Market but the walls have since been made of 3,000 square meters of stained glass, including 28 colours and is considered one of the largest artworks in the world.

Sunlight shines through the coloured glass across the exotic plants dropping dappled colours throughout the garden. Oliverio Jimenez, the director if the garden, says ‘the combination of plants and the stained glass is unique in the world.’ Added to these are the scent of the lush plants, the sounds of water from the fountains and classical music piped throughout the garden making the experience a relaxing sensation for many senses.

Toluca’s temperate climate turns cold in the winter, but the microclimate created inside these stained glass walls allow tropical plants to survive.

Las Pozas, Xilitla

Las Pozas, Xilitla is the remarkable, fantastical creation of the English poet and artist, Edward James. As patron of the Surrealist movement James was influenced by the architectural elements of the surrealists as well as by the nature around him. Many of the concrete scuptures that define the landscape of this garden look like trailing orchids or resemble the intricate patterns of the jungle greenery.

In the 1960s and 1970s Edward spent millions of dollars the gardens, employing hundreds of masons, artisans, and local craftsmen to build 36 concrete sculptures, across more than 20 acres of the Mexican jungle. Las Pozas has become well known throughout the world and has become a destination for artists, writers, tourists and photographers interested in Edward James and the Surrealist movement, but for people who have no knowledge of either the creater or the Surrealists, the gardens remain a place of magical beauty.